Swell Direction: 208 moving to 198 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti. Also called 'Background' swell. Temps bottomed out at -1.654 on 11/3/2020. 2023 Snow-Forecast.com | Privacy | Cookie Policy. It was up to +21.85 on 2/10 and +55.74 on 12/22 and were in the +20 range the previous 22 days. The Pacific-Ocean Weather Map below shows the weather forecast for the next 12 days. About Us Tonight: Partly cloudy with scattered showers. Wind waves N 4 ft at 5 seconds. Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (4/30) (These temps are biased high by about 0.2 degs compared to official sources). . of showers through the day. The CFS model is on the upper range of all models. Rain limited to Cape Mendocino through the day and evening. The main story for most of the region will be the medium to locally good-sized run of Southern Hemisphere swell topping out this weekend. Pacific Text Forecasts. Your heart knows the way. Temps were rising today at +0.318 besting the previous peak at +0.199 on 4/21. No tropical systems of interest are being monitored at this time. Wind waves 3 ft. W swell 12 ft at LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST. Swell NW 5 ft. Swell fading Tues (5/2) from 7.0 ft @ 10-11 secs (7.0 ft). In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. A gale started developing east of New Zealand on Thurs AM (4/27) with 35-40+ kt south winds and seas 30 ft at 48S 166.25W aimed northeast. There are signs of warming along the coasts of Chile. Today (2/24) the daily index was negative at -0.96 after peaking at +27.33 on 1/31/22 and +46.71 on 12/26. But then reconsolidating and poised to push weakly over California. 2. The trend of late has been towards positive readings. On Sat AM (4/29) northwest winds were 30 kts just west of the dateline with seas 23 ft at 39.75N 172.75E aimed southeast. Updated: Fri, 28-Apr-2023 08:53:54 UTC. Check out our Privacy Policy for more information, 2022 Surfable and SURFERforecast. The main swells in the water are going to be an overlapping pair of Southern Hemisphere swells, with the new one showing bigger sets late. Global-Pacific wave (swell) map for surfers, windsurfers and sailors showing open ocean wave size, wave period and wave energy. showers and steep seas will continue into Tuesday, along with Rationale: It was assumed that the moderate La Nina from the Winter of 2020/2021 was on the wane and that a return to neutral ENSO state would set up over the Pacific Basin through the summer of 2021. Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East, CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link. All this signals the demise of La Nina. Alternatively, visit our basic swell maps of Pacific-Ocean where each view becomes a separate image. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like'). TUE Otherwise no swell producing weather systems are forecast). 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc, https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ, http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html, http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/. The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). 8. TODAY Easing swells this week. Hawaii's North Shore had sets at waist to chest high on the sets and clean and lined up but inconsistent and weak. A broad trough of low pressure is expected to bud a surface low near New Caledonia over the short term, generating more quality E-E/NE swell as the low drifts through the South Pacific slot and into the Tasman. Hi-res Overview: (2/23) The magnitude of the core of the La Nina cool pool is gone. Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future. Not much of a change compared to the last few days in the forecast, maybe even a notch smaller. 2. 13 secondssubsiding to 9 ft at 12 seconds in the afternoon. Wind waves 2 ft or lessbecoming 3 to 4 ft. W swell Updated! Central Orange County had sets at thigh to maybe waist high and clean and lined up when they came but generally weak with light offshore wind. More swell is looking likely out the back too, just nothing as big as what we are going to see this weekend. Fall /Winter 2021-2022 = 1.5 . This is not believable. Still lots of swell over the weekend, but morning conditions are trending less favorably. of more interest is swell pushing east originating from a broad system that developed just off the Kuril Islands Mon-Tues (2/22) producing 39 ft seas aimed east then dissipating before reaching the dateline. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. East winds up to 15 mph . The Pacific-Ocean Weather Map below shows the weather forecast for the next 12 days. But weaker residual cool waters were still covering a large area from Peru up to the equator and west to 140W and weaker to the dateline. Water temperatures are a warm 25 to 27C or 77 to 81F year-round. 5 nm of Brookings southward, NW wind 15 to 25 kt. West Central North Atlantic continental shelf and slope waters. Elevation. NW wind 5 kt. veering to W in the eveningbacking to SW after midnight. INSEE /Postal code. No cool anomalies were under the Pacific. Saturday the 13th (building day) into Sunday the 14th could see the next southern hemisphere ground swell as models like the idea of another storm breaking off Antarctica in a similar position as the one for the middle of next week (model by FNMOC): Based on 144-hour models, this would bring chest+ sets to south facing breaks, angled from 195 with periods 16 seconds. 16-day surf forecast for Waikiki in Oahu - South Shore. On Sat AM (4/29) 40-45 kt northwest winds are forecast building well off the Pacific Northwest with seas 24 ft at 44.5N 142W aimed southeast. The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 (2/23/21 - clearly indicative of La Nina then). Fetch fading on Thurs AM (3/3) form 45 kts over the dateline with 38 ft seas at 44.75N 178.5W aimed east. becoming 3 ft in the afternoon. They are to warm to -0.438 degrees in April, then rising to -0.026 degs in July and hovering near 0,0 degs after that. But La Nina made a strong return by the end of Sept much like what the CFS model suggested would happen and a full double dip pattern took hold through the Winter of 21/22. Summary - Cool subsurface water volume peaked under the equatorial Pacific on 10/15/21, beating last years volume, but is quickly fading at the surface in the East Equatorial Pacific. A small pocket of cooling was indicated over the Galapagos. Churches & Cathedrals. afternoon. http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html Almost every morning looks to be the cleanest window of the day, so keep that in mind if youre trying to plan a surf. Select from the other forecast maps (on the right) to view the temperature, cloud cover, wind and precipitation for this country on a large scale with animation. Overview Wind waves 2 ft or less It fell to -19.40 on 4/2. Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. La Nina is solid but appears to be fading focused over the equatorial East Pacific. TUE NIGHT Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. NAVTEX Coastal & Offshore Waters Forecasts. sgi_tile=1; Good odds for swell radiating northeast towards the US West Coast, Central America and South America. On Sunday (4/30) small swell was hitting North CA associated with a gale previously in the Northern Gulf (see Small North Gulf Gale below) but buried in local chop. waves 3 ft in the eveningbecoming 2 ft or less. Wednesday the 10th into Thursday the 11th could see the next southern hemisphere ground swell from this system that should break off Antarctica in a few days (model by FNMOC): Size so far is coming in at chest+ with swell angled from 195 and periods 16 seconds. Swell continues Thurs (5/4) at 2.6 ft @ 15 secs early (4.0 ft). 7. Chance Over the next 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast. Our Weather Data Slight chance of showers. DeepSwell offers free surf reports and long-range forecasts including swell, tide, wind and weather reports updated multiple times daily. That jet-bend on this model for the 8th-9th of this month, falls in an 8- to 9-day swell window for SoCal; hence, swell ETA by the 17th. The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Rationale: It was assumed that the moderate La Nina from the Winter of 2020/2021 was on the wane and that a return to neutral ENSO state would set up over the Pacific Basin through the summer of 2021. Saturday looks clearer and warmer so far. 117-128 m (384-420 ft) Website. Swell Direction: 192 degrees, North CA: Dribbles on Mon (5/1) fading from 1.8 ft @ 13 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). TONIGHT Important: JavaScript support must be turned on in order to use these animated swell maps. . Updated: Fri, 28-Apr-2023 08:47:32 UTC. Fall/Winter 2022 = 4.0 (California & Hawaii) Within 5 nm of Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022. Wind waves 2 ft or less. Swell should drop to chest max with fewer pluses Sunday the 7th and then fade Monday the 8th (waist to chest). There no sign of La Nina on the oceans surface and everything is now looking like El Nino. Find unique places to stay with local hosts in 191 countries. Wind waves 4 to 7 ft. A small started developing over the Northwestern Gulf on Wed AM (4/26) producing 35-40 kt west winds with seas building to 24 ft at 48N 166.75W aimed east. PZZ350-011600 National Weather Service Medford, OR Summer - up to waist high swell. On Sat AM (5/6) south winds to be 40-45 kts with seas 37 ft at 48.75S 132.25W. Surface Analysis : See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page). Outlook for the following 72 hours During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. See it Here Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours. PACIFIC OVERVIEW In the evening fetch was fading from 30 kts approaching the dateline with seas 29 ft near at 40N 173E. The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. W wind 10 ktbacking to SW. Wind waves 3 ft. Over the next 72 hours another gale developed in the South Central Pacific (see South Central Pacific Gale below) and swell from it is radiating northeast. Swell fading Sun (2/27) from 5.6 ft @ 14-15 secs early (8.0 ft). National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Fetch raced northeast in the evening at 35-40 kts with seas 24 ft at 52N 154W aimed east. This is dragging colder air along with it, but upper atmospheric temps (850 hPa, a mile up) should be well above the freezing mark, so surface temps will not dive too low, and nightly cloud cover should provide enough blanket to keep low temps in the 50s at the coast. On Sun AM (4/30) the gale was fading off Oregon with 30 kt northwest winds and seas 21 ft at 42.5N 134.5W aimed east targeting Central CA northward. Swell holding Sun (5/7) at 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video. Still it will take some time for the atmosphere to fully respond, resulting in a less than normal swell production forecast especially for Fall into early Winter 2022. 218 AM PDT Mon May 1 2023, SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH TUESDAY AFTERNOON. 00:37. The jet was split east of 155W with the northern branch weak and pushing towards British Columbia but not reaching there yet. Mostly the same story as of late. Buoys in the outer waters were running 5'. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations). Oahu: Expect swell arrival late on Mon (5/1) building to 2.1 ft @ 17 secs right before sunset (3.5 ft). US Dept of Commerce The hi-res GODAS animation posted 4/23 indicates a huge very warm stream of 3+ degs anomalies extending from the far West Pacific east to 100W (leading edge of Kelvin Wave #2) and then upwards from there over the far East Pacific with +4 degs anomalies from Kelvin Wave #1 erupting there into Ecuador. Over the next 72 hours swell from two weather systems are to be in play (see Kuril Island Gale and Gulf Gale below). Southeast winds around 10 mph shifting to the northeast in the afternoon. : See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page). W wind 5 kt. Meteorological Overview Wind Long Range Forecast Mostly the same story as of late. Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft) As for totals, there's a wide spread on the models and spotty amounts to boot. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. Freezing level falling steadily from there down to 4,000 ft on 3/6. Swell Direction:292-295 degrees. Summer - Waist to chest high. Slight chance of showers. Taking the GFS and to some degree the ECMWF into account, I'd call for drizzle Monday morning along the coast; light rain sometime Tuesday morning from LA north (dry in OC and SD); then mostly dry Wednesday day, but with rain Wednesday late afternoon or evening into Thursday for most of SoCal, spreading from north to south. This swell should linger in the chest max range Wednesday the 3rd, decreasing later in the day. Hi-res 7 day Trend (4/29): A neutral trend was along the coasts of Chile and Peru as Kelvin Wave #1 starts fading there. Saturday the 6th should run chest high at south facing breaks with occasional head high sets at standouts. But it will be too little too late. Copyright Nathan Cool | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | PV: 8.1.18. NW wind 5 ktveering to E after midnight. NW ground swell increases Monday with a mix of wind swell, lasting for a couple days. In the afternoon south winds are forecast at 5 kts for Cape Mendocino and northwest 15-20 kts for the rest of North CA and 20+ kts for Central CA. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Global-Pacific wave (swell) map for surfers, windsurfers and sailors showing open ocean wave size, wave period and wave energy. The East Shore was chest high and lightly chopped from moderate east trades. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft). Chance of rain 20 percent. PACIFIC OVERVIEW Detailed Surf Reports, 16-day Surf Forecasts, Surf Photos, Live Winds, Tides and Weather | Swellnet Premium ad-free surfcams, dawn surf reports, forecaster notes, long range surf forecasts. Thursday the 4th looks about waist high everywhere, but with NW ground swell filling in, running up to chest high later in the day at west facing spots. The morning may have a little window that could be worth a look. View accurate wind, swell and tide forecasts for any GPS point. In autumn and and early spring the Santa Ana wind brings weeks of offshore conditions. Swell Direction: 191 degrees. Perhaps another small gale to develop in the Western Gulf on Sun PM (2/27) with 45 kt west winds over a tiny area and seas building from 24 flat 43N 157.5W aimed east. Ian - the nation's third most expensive weather disaster on record - is among 29 hurricanes, including 13 major hurricanes, churned out by the Atlantic from 2020 to 2022, or roughly 30% more than the average for a typical three-year span. The 90 day average peaked at +15.75 on 2/23 (clearly indicative of La Nina then). But cold water returned in July 2021 and a second pulse of La Nina developed through the Winter of 2022.